Originally published on August 26, 2010.
I have tasted about 98% of the wines stocked on the Frankly Wines shelves. When a customer brings a bottle to the counter and asks if I’ve tried it, I’m always surprised when they’re surprised when I quote this statistic. But I forget that I operate in a very specific realm of the already rarified New York City retail scene. Most of the store owners I know taste everything on their shelves – and since the shelves aren’t all that big, it’s easier to do than if you owed a warehouse-sized space in the suburbs.
But there is that other 2%. Wine that I wasn’t able to try before buying. Wine that simply has to be bought on faith. Most of the time, I’ll get to sample a specific wine, either with a sales rep at the shop, at a trade tasting, maybe even purchased from another store because I’m too lazy to call in a request and set up an appointment. Most wines, even many really wonderful ones, just aren’t so highly in demand that you can’t take your time getting to know them.
But some wines are like NY real estate – at least NY real estate back in the good old days of, oh, 2008? You have to claim them before the boat has even left the dock on the other side of whichever ocean they’re coming from. Generally, I have some experience with the specific producer (vigneron, winery, whatever specific term applies). I’ve had past vintages, or a different blend or vineyard site – and trust the producer enough to not turn out some complete crap this time around.
But sometimes, I really am making a leap of faith. Like Tuesday night. I went to check out Eric Asimov’s “The Pour” column in the New York Times and it was on Bordeaux. Small, independent Bordeaux producers.
Now I love Bordeaux – mainly old-ish Bordeaux from good-but-not-glamorous houses that I can pick up at auction. It’s not in fashion, but I love it anyway. But Bordeaux from more recent vintages is a trickier proposition. Many of the producers that were turning out elegant, classic claret in the 1990s have evolved into a more modern style over the most recent decade. And style aside, they’ve also gotten very, very expensive.
But these smaller producers have been on my list of “wines to get to know.” I just haven’t had a chance to get to know them yet. So on Tuesday night, when I see the New York Times piece, I know there’s going to be a giant sucking sound and by Wednesday evening, there will be no more of these Bordeaux to be had until the next vintage rolls around.
Time for a leap of faith. I forward the piece to my sales rep at one of the featured importers. This is a guy who has never poured me a bad wine. Who has never misled me on how little of something is actually available. Who watches out for those last little bits of cases of things he knows I can work with. So the conversation basically goes like this:
- I ask for a recommendation.
- He makes it.
The Domaine de Jaugaret 2004 and 2005 arrives on Monday.
Photo Credit: laurenatclemson. Creative Commons terms of use.