Walking in a Winter Blaufrankisch Land

Originally published on February 22, 2008.

It’s finally snowing!

Many retailers don’t like snow because it means we have to shovel (or pay someone to shovel.) I don’t mind snow so much because by some freak coincidence of downtown architecture and wind patterns, it never snows in front of Frankly Wines. It actually never snows on my side of the street. I was expecting today to finally prove me wrong – was all ready to go buy a snow shovel, but turned the corner to the shop and once again – no snow!!! This is one of the small things that make me happy!

Blaufrankish would be another small thing that makes me happy. This is a grape variety that’s starting to make a name for itself in Austria, although it’s also grown in Germany, Hungary (I think) and occasionally in Long Island and Washington where it’s known as Lemberger. Its days of relative obscurity are probably numbered as both the New York Times and the Wall Street Journal have done pieces on it during the last year.

Anyhow, Blaufrankisch tends to make wines that are medium-bodied, fruit-forward with just enough acidity to make them more than just an average fruit bomb. Some winemakers will put the grape through a bit of oak aging, but the ones I like the most tend to be left to their own fruit devices – and tend to be very very easy to drink.

Yesterday I tried one from Weninger, a producer that’s recently been moving to biodynamic production. This Blaufrankisch was just the kind I like – very little oak was used, so the wine was filled with juicy red cherries and berries and a little bit of spiciness. Nice acidity, medium-bodied. Plush, happy fruit is the overall impression. Price-wise, will probably hit about $15.99.

This wine will be hitting my shelves soon – because every good wine shop should have a Blaufrankisch or two, even if their focus is Southern Hemisphere.