Author: Christy

Fancy Pants Wine: Cheval des Andes 2004

Originally published on May 3, 2008.

And another fancy pants wine, in case your pants are feeling especially fancy today…

Cheval des Andes 2004 (Mendoza, Argentina)
A joint venture between Terrazas de los Andres and Chateau Cheval Blanc, St. Emilion’s Premier Grand Cru. Winemaking is overseen by Pierre Lurton, who also manages Chateau d’Yquem in Bordeaux’s Sauterns region.

The wine is described as a “New World Grand Cru”, but whatever it’s called, it’s good stuff. A blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and a bit of Petit Verdot, it offers up black cherry, black currant, violets, spices, with full body, intense flavors, and great length. The label also sports a white “cheval” hidden among the Andes – can you spot it in the image above?

Very drinkable now, this wine can also age 5 – 10 years.

Fancy Pants Wine: Chateau Musar White 1999

Originally published on May 3, 2008.

Time for another fancy pants wine…

Chateau Musar White 1999 (Bekaa Valley, Lebanon)
Gaston Hochar’s red Chateau Musar wines have developed cult following, but the whites are even more obscure – and just as worthy of a little cult of their own. Made from the Merwah and Obaideh grapes, the wine reminds us of traditional aged white Rioja. Done in a slightly oxidized style, the wine is nutty, with notes of carmalized almond, dried fruits, and a bit of honey – but it’s not at all sweet. It has a super long finish and would go very well with simply grilled fish.

This Week’s 3-Pack: Oh Say Can You Sangiovese

Originally published on April 28, 2008.

OH SAY CAN YOU SANGIOVESE

You may have heard of Brunello di Montalcino. You have almost certainly heard of Chianti. But did you know that the main grape variety in both wines is Sangiovese? Or that Sangiovese vines can be found beyond Italian soil? Well, now you know. With this 3-Pack you can give this undercover grape a try.

Sonnino 2006 (Chianti Montespertoli DOCG, Italy)
Classic Chianti = classic Sangiovese = dried tart cherries, dusty tea leaves, medium body and lip-smacking acidity. Chianti is a food-loving wine, so be sure to drink it with some – Italian is the natural choice.

Girasole Vineyards Sangiovese 2005 (Mendocino, California)
Sangiovese, California-style. The wine has a touch of earthiness, but it primarily offers up bright, clean cherry fruit. You wouldn’t mistake if for Italian, but it’s lovable in its own right.

Mocali 2006 (Rosso di Montalcino DOC, Italy)
In the Montalcino region, Sangiovese is known as ‘Brunello’ (‘little dark one’) or ‘Sangiovese Grosso’ (big’ Sangiovese’). And Brunello di Montalcino is big-time, big-money Italian wine. Try a little taste of it (without the big bucks) in the region’s younger, more approachable Rossos. This version of Sangiovese is fuller-bodied, more earthy, with darker fruits and bigger, silky tannins.

Disturbing Fact: The name ‘sangiovese’ derives from sanguis Jovis, “the blood of Jove”. Drink up!!!

Hungarian g-what-traminer??

Originally published on April 21, 2008.

A while back, I wrote about the 60 bottles of Moroccan Syrah that I brought in because I had it at a tasting and it was just too yummy to pass up. It was the biggest purchase I had made in the month or so that I had been open and amazingly (well, not so amazingly, I do like to think I know a little bit about what I’m doing) it’s almost gone.

At that same tasting, I also tried a Hungarian Gewurztraminer which I liked so much that I bought several cases on pre-order. The wine just arrived, and happily, it’s as good as I remember it. Even better really as it’s very well suited to warmer weather. Here’s the scoop:

Pannonhalmi Apatsagi Tramini 2006 (Pannonhalma, Hungary)

If I’m translating correctly, Pannonhalmi Apatsagi is the producer and Pannonhalma is the region. The grape variety is Tramini, which is what the Hungarians call the Gewurztraminer grape. Gewurztraminer is most famously made in the Alsace region of France, but you’ll also find it kicking around areas of Germany, Austria, and apparently, Hungary.

Classic Alsace Gewurztraminer is a highly perfumed mix of floral, spice, and tropical fruit aromas – roses, honeysuckle, sweet spice, and lychees. Relatively low in acidity, the wines are usually fairly full-bodied, almost oily and their intense, spicy flavours make them a nice match to spicy Asian food.

This Hungarian version, however, is not exactly classic. It’s super dry, almost racy, with bright limes, minerals, some floral notes, sweet nutmeg spice. When we tasted it in-store, Ross picked up lemon grass, but Ross is a chef, so we expect him to find very specific ingredients in his wine. Least classic of all – there’s not a lychee to be found. This, combined with the raciness of the wine, will probably disappoint those who like a classic, fat, round Gewurz (never fear, we do have a very nice Trimbach version in stock), but for those who shy away from the grape, this is a version to try and possibly love. And it couldn’t be more perfect for hot summer days.

This Week’s 3-Pack: A Tale of Three Malbecs

Originally published on April 14, 2008.

If you’re paying attention, you realize these aren’t really “weekly” 3-Packs. More like bi-weekly, or bi-and-a-half-weekly, but whatever….

So here it is, lifted straight out of the weekly newsletter….

A Tale of Three Malbecs
The Malbec grape and Argentina are proving to be one of the wine world’s greatest matches. But many people don’t realize the grape first found its home in the Cahor region of France. This 3-Pack features the grape in three very different incarnations – 1) highly gulpable 2) polished and refined 3) old school French

Punta Pays Malbec 2005 (Mendoza, Argentina): A highly gulpable verision of Malbec – black fruits, plums, a hint of smokiness, but nothing too serious to get in the way of easy-drinking goodness.

Terrazas Reserva Malbec 2005 (Mendoza, Argentina): This version also has classic black fruits, plums, smokiness, and some notes of violet. It’s more intense and has some additional toasty notes from time aging in oak. Polished, refined, and great with grilled beef or lamb (it is from Argentina!)

Chateau la Caminade “La Commandery” 2005 (Cahors, France): Malbec from its original home in Southwest France, where its known as Cot Noir or Auxerrios (don’t even try to pronounce it.) Inky black, with brambly dark fruits, a pleasantly salty character and a long, chewy finish. Excellent with meats, game, mushrooms, and cheeses.

A Wine Store Owner Looks at 40

Originally published on April 12, 2008

Someone walked into the store yesterday and wanted to get a bottle for a friend who was turning 40. I helped him pick something out and as I was ringing up the sale, it suddenly dawned on me that I’ll soon be picking out something for my own 40th birthday. Sure, not for several more years (well, a couple more years, but a little denial isn’t such a bad thing), but soon enough that I should probably start drawing up my wine list.

My Biggest Pet Peeve

Originally published on April 7, 2008.

I actually have a lot of small pet peeves, but none worth mentioning. Actually, this one probably isn’t worth mentioning either, but what’s a blog for if not to write about the minutia of our lives.

So, here goes…nothing makes me want to roll my eyes more than when someone picks up a bottle of wine and asks “is this any good.” Happens all the time – usually when someone is looking at one of my lower priced bottles – and each time, I have to restrain myself from saying “no, it’s complete crap.” Now I don’t like to make fun of customers (I love my customers) but this question drives me crazy because I make sure all my wines offer good value, even the $9.99 bottles – especially the $9.99 bottles! (that’s as low as I go, but remember, this shop is in Manhattan).

But I suppose the question really just comes down to a lot of the wine snobbery that surrounds the wine industry – implications that a bottle can’t be any good unless it’s expensive, or has been written up somewhere, or rated, or fear of the dreaded shop snob eye roll when someone picks out the least expensive bottle on the shelf. So I’m not really annoyed with my customers – I’m annoyed with the industry!

There, I feel much better.

Sum-yum-yum-ertime Wine – Ameztoi Getariako Txakolina

Originally published on March 29, 2008.

In my mind, it’s 80 degrees outside, so I opened a bottle of Ameztoi Getariako Txakolina today. This is a perfect summer wine, and even if the weather didn’t cooperate, the wine was still good.

Txakoli is a wine region located in Spain’s Basque country. It’s a blend of some obscure, unpronounceable grapes which you’ll find nowhere else in the world. The Ameztoi Getariako is clean, crisp, super dry and minerally, with some notes of tart Granny Smith apples, citrus peel.

Absolutely perfect for a hot summer day lounging around on a roof top somewhere (remember – this is a NYC shop, we don’t have yards here. But it would work just as well in your backyard if you’re lucky enough to have one.)

Goes great with salty snacks, shellfish, or on its own in a plain old paper cup. Come on weather – play nice!

This Week’s Other 3-Pack: Chenin Blanc: A Grape of Many Flavors

Originally published on March 22, 2008.

Chenin Blanc is the rare grape variety that can do crisp and refreshing, rich and full-bodied or the whole spectrum of off-dry to sweet and luscious. In this pack, you can taste for yourself – one grape, three wildly different wines.

Teddy Hall Chenin Blanc 2007 (Stellenbosch, South Africa): This expression of Chenin is dry, crisp, and refreshing, with zesty notes of lemon peel. Highly drinkable and perfect for summer.

La Noblaie Les Chiens-Chiens 200X (Chinon, Loire, France): White wine from the Loire’s Chinon region is a rare find, but this one is definitely not for the dogs-dogs (chiens = dogs). A total contrast to the Teddy Hall, this version of Chenin is dry, yet richer and fuller. Notes of citrus, honey, and a finish that will remind you of popcorn – toasty, slightly oily – hard to describe, but definitely yummy.

Domaine Pichot – Domaine Le Peu de la Moriette 2006 (Vouvray, Loire, France): Chenin Blanc in its off-dry expression. Slightly sweet, with notes of hints of honey, candied fruit. The hint of citrus peel on the finish keeps it clean, crisp, and surprisingly refreshing.

This Week’s 3-Pack: Que Syrah Shiraz

Originally published on March 21, 2018.

Another week, another 3-Pack. Actually, I’m featuring two 3-Packs this week – one white, one red. Below is the red version. The white one will follow tomorrow because I’m tired and need to unwind with some crappy TV. Ah, the glamorous life of a wine store owner…

Que Syrah Shiraz
OK, the name is more than a little cheesy, but it was tough to resist because this pack features three very different examples of the Syrah grape (aka the Shiraz grape.) Two names = twice the fun, or in this pack, three times the fun.

Green Point Shiraz 2005 (Victoria, Australia): From one of the coolest regions in Australia, this wine is worlds away from typical Aussie fruit bombs. A good example of “cool climate” Shiraz, it offers bright, fresh, vibrant red fruits with a touch of sweet spice and crisp acidity.

Burch Hall Syrah 2004 (Sierra Foothills, California): A little less fruit-forward than the Green Point, this Cali syrah is clean and elegant with notes of red cherries and a bit of peppery spice.

Charles Cimicky Trumps Shiraz 2006 (Barossa Valley, Australia): Classic Barossa Shiraz – big, brooding, loads of spice, some toasty oak, a rich earthiness and a smooth, velvety finish. The world “elegant” may not leap to mind, but this is yummy stuff.