Category: Wine (Buying) History

Why I’m Not So Crazy About the Wine Spectator Top 100

Originally published on November 15, 2008

In no particular order:

  1. If you’re a retailer, it’s a lazy way to buy wine. We should be offering a more interesting point of view than “as many wines from someone else’s list that I can get my hands on before they sell through the distributor.”
  2. If you’re a consumer, it’s also kind of lazy. That said, I know the wine world is confusing, sometimes almost deliberately so. So I understand that any list anywhere is helpful. But here’s a little trick…if you want the Mollydooker 2007 which made this year’s Top 10, you might not want to immediately run away from prior vintages just because they wasn’t on this year’s list. If you’re prepared to like a producer this year, chances are very good you’ll like the producer any year. And the main difference may just be that you don’t have to pay the “Wine Spectator Top 100 Premium” that always seems to crop up around this time of the year. Better to use the list as a jumping off point than the end-all-be-all that a lot of people make it.
  3. Little undercover wines that I love sometimes crop up on the list. This sucks because then the big stores snatch all the wine and I can’t get it anymore. I hate that..I really hate that.
  4. A big ranking can be the kiss of death for new, up-and-coming wines. Here’s why…Not only can I not get the wine, but most smaller stores can’t. This is because the big stores beat the distributors over the head to get as much of the wine as they can. In some states, the distributors slap big case deals on these wines, like a 25% discount on 10 cases. Little shops can’t (and many don’t want) to tie up the cash needed to buy 10 cases of an $80 wine, even if it does mean a 25% discount. So these wines end up at big stores with big discounts. Now this isn’t a bad thing for the consumer – everyone likes good wine for less money. But then the next vintage comes around…without the big rating, so the big stores don’t want to touch the wine now. And the little stores are now reluctant to buy the wine as well – because this year the wine is probably more expensive (thank you ratings!) and consumers expect it to cost what it cost last year…in the big stores with the big discount. And people that buy off of the Top 100 list aren’t even interested anymore. So what was once a nice up-and-coming wine is now struggling with all this baggage.

I could probably come up with more, but I don’t want to spend any more time thinking about this list than I already have.

Next up, an obligatory Thanksgiving wine list. Yes, they’re sort of annoying, but I’m a retailer… I have to do this!

More Validation of My Good Taste: Eric Asimov Writes about Lopez de Heredia Whites

Originally published on November 11, 2008.

Oh no, the cat is starting to get out of the bag. Eric Asimov from the NYTimes just wrote about Lopez de Heredia. Sure, everybody seems to write about this particular old school Rioja producer, but they usually go on about the reds. Mr. Asimov writes about their whites. Luckily, he spends more time writing about chicken (fingers and breasts) and football than he does about the wine, but still, the cat is out!

I tried some of the older whites at a tasting and fell so in love that I bought a small stash of vintages from the 80s. I’m a sucker for this style of wine – slightly oxidized, a bit of sherry-like tang coming through, a little bit of nuttiness, almost some waxy notes. Not much in terms of fruit, but somehow, the wines remain incredibly fresh and vibrant. While more exotic, Chateau Musar whites somehow seem to have something in common with LdH blancos. Intrepid Wine Company’s 2005 Asprinio also manages to balance an impression of weight and richness with incredible freshness. I have no idea if this is typical of the Asprinio grape – I’ve only ever had one in my life.

These are all wines for people who say they don’t like white wines. They’re worlds away from Piont Grigio, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc, which may be why they’re so difficult to describe. Even most wine geeks struggle to find words for these weirdly wonderful whites. “Beeswax” may not sound very appealing, but you’ll have to trust me…it is.

Or don’t trust me…then I can keep the wines for myself!

Validation of My Good Taste

Originally published on November 10, 2008 .

Little wine stores like to sell wine that you can’t find anywhere else. It makes us feel special. And we hope it makes you feel special. And to be honest, small shops can’t really sell the big brands you see everywhere because they tend to offer really big case discounts which we can’t participate in. Small stores can’t really afford to buy 25 cases of anything, even the cheap stuff. (And money aside, 25 cases would pretty much take over my entire basement.) As a result, big stores can sell big wine brands for less money that I can even buy them.

Luckily, there’s a lot of wine in the world and plenty of small wineries and wines to discover.

But somehow, I still seem to wind up with the same wines as the neighboring wine shops. 

We don’t overlap very much, but I always find it amusing seeing where we do. Like this wonderful, yet relativley obscure Oloroso Dry Sherry by Emilio Hidalgo which I tried at a tasting and immediatly ordered because it was so delicious. Or the red Txakolina (yes, red) that I wanted but they managed to snag the new vinage first (and any neighborhood really only needs one red Txakolina.) Or Slingshot, an atypially restrained Cabernet from Napa Valley. And perhaps most amusingly, the Yellow + Blue Malbec in the eco-chic (cringing at that phrase even as I type it) tetrapak.

I could get all crazy about this overlap, but I actaully find it as a validation of my good taste. I know I understand how to buy wine, but as a new business owner, it’s easy to second guess your choices. So when a well-respected, well-established shop decides to stock some of the same wines I do, it makes me feel like I know what I’m doing. Especially if I have it first, like with the Yellow + Blue malbec and the Slingshot cabernet.

So a little overlap is kind of nice…but just a little…

Yes, We Have No Pinot Grigio (but we do have the Valdesil Montenovo Godello)

Originally published on October 12, 2008.

Too many holidays over the last week. Distributors were closed on Thursday for Yom Kippur which meant they weren’t taking orders for Friday which meant I wasn’t able to get my order in for delivery before the weekend which means I am out of my usual Pinot Grigio! And what’s the primary grape variety people ask for by name (at least on holiday weekends when I see a lot of tourist traffic)….PINOT GRIGIO!!!

Sure, I have Livio Felluga Pinot Grigio, which is fantastic, but it has a lot more body and complexity than most people really want when they ask for Pinot Grigio by name. It doesn’t really count.

But never fear – I have a couple other substitutes I always point out – mainly the Valdesil Montenovo from Spain. It’s made from the Godello grape and has the same light citrus taste you’ll find in a Pinot Grigio, but with just a touch more body. Although it’s still a fairly neutral wine, it has more minerality and more personality than the run of the mill Pinot Grigio.

Georges Descombes – 5th member of the Gang of Four (and why that math makes sense)

A NOTE FROM THE FUTURE: Descombes on the shelf for $20??? I could cry. Nah, no crying in Beaujolais. Just moving on to the next crop of growers – there still value to be found, you just need to keep your eyes peeled. (And honestly, Descombes at what it sells for today is still very much a decent value. Just maybe a bit less so than it was ten years ago.)

Originally published on October 11, 2008.

Last night, we poured the Georges Descombes Régnié 2007. Georges Descombes is the 5th member of the Morgan Gang of Four. Yes, my math is correct, there are 5 members in the Gang of Four. I will explain, but first you’ll have to endure a little Beaujolais education. Beaujolias = a region in France. Technically, it’s the southern-most part of the Burgundy region, but it really can stand as a region of its own. In most of Burgundy, the red wines are made from the Pinot Noir grape. In the Beaujolais, the red wines (and they are mainly red) are made from the Gamay grape.

Unfortunately, Beaujolais has a bit of an image problem – mainly among people who haven’t actually tried a good Beaujolais. When most people think of Beaujolias, they think of a wine that’s rooty-tooty-fresh-and-fruity and almost bubble-gummy. While these are actually good starter wines for people just moving beyond White Zinfandel (I drank it myself when I was just starting out), they don’t really give an indication as to what really good Beaujolais can do.

Starter wines aside, good Beaujolais is an ideal match for fall. It offers the perfect balance of fresh red fruits, dark, slate-y earthiness, and the zip of acidity that makes it perfect with food. The best Beaujolais come from ten specific villages within the broader region. These villages are referred to as “crus” and they have lovely French names like Brouilly, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Saint-Amore, Molin-a-Vent, and Morgon.

The village of Morgon is home to four vignerons (a French word that incorporates grape-growing and winemaking in a more holistic way than just saying viticulturalist/winemaker) who make fabulous, “serious” Beaujolais and practice natural* winemaking. (I’d say “benchmark” Beaujolais, but that goes against the spirit of what these wines are about.)

This Morgon Gang of Four includes Marcel Lapierre, Jean Foillard, Guy Breton, and Jean-Paul Thevenet (all imported by Kermit Lynch). But they aren’t the only vignerons in Morgon using natural winemaking techniques to make Beaujolias that stand heads and tails above anything else in the region….Georges Descombes is another. Since his wines are imported by Louis/Dressner, another importer, officially amending the Morgan Gang of Four to the Morgan Gang of Five probably isn’t going to happen.

But the wine we opened last night wasn’t even from Morgon – it was from the village of Régnié. But it was made by Descombes. And it was good.

Added bonus: it doesn’t actually say “Beaujolais” on the label, it just says “Régnié” and very few people know what that means. So people couldn’t turn up their noses before they tried it. And guess what, they liked it!

I’m not going to get into an actual tasting note (too much tying already), but if you’re interested, just out BrooklynGuys note on the 2006 here. Keep in mind he was drinking the 2006 about a year ago (@ $20/bottle). We have the 2007 at a few dollars more (damn euro!)

*”Natural” wine. “Real” wine. Whatever you call it, the Louis/Dressner gives an elegant description right here.

Wine Blogging Wednesday #50: The Great Outdoors

A NOTE FROM THE FUTURE: Now that I have a shop up in Copake, in the middle of hiking territory, I’m much more well-versed in what to bring on a hike. These days, Tetrapaks don’t seem to be as widely available. But there are cans galore to choose from. Still wine in cans. Sparkling wine in cans. Spritzes. Pre-mixed drinks. Ciders. Ciders with spritz-type flavors. The list goes on and one. And here’s a pro tip (from a hiking pro, which would not be me… I’m still not much of a hiker) – chose your favorite wine in a box – and remove the box. The bag with it’s handy spigot will travel just fine.

Originally published on October 7, 2008.

This week’s host is Russ Beebe, whose blog is Winehiker Witiculture. Fittingly for a Winehiker, the theme revolves around what wine you would pour in the great outdoors.

Now first, I don’t hike. I don’t even own sneakers, or hikers, or whatever you’re supposed to hike in. My husband and some friends used to go on a big hiking every year and I would always come up with a reason I couldn’t go. Finally. they just stopped inviting me…even my husband stopped inviting me.

Lack of hiking gear aside, I do know just what I would pour. It would be the Yellow + Blue Malbec from Argentina. Why? Well, it’s yummy. But aside from that, it comes in a tetrapak, so it’s light – much lighter than a bottle. And while I may not hike, I know hikers like to keep their packs as light as possible.

Full disclosure: I probably won’t have thought of this on my own (hiking is really that foreign of a concept to me), but a customer was just in the store last weekend, going on a hike, and she picked up 3 of these little liters for her trip.

Wine You Never Knew You Needed: Mondeuse

Originally published on October 7, 2008.

Domaine Labbe Mondeuse 2006 (Vin de Savoie, France): Mondeuse is the French name for the Italian Rofosco grape (like that helps). Vin de Savoie is a wine region located at the base of the French side of the Alps – which could explain why the wine is like a breath of clean, crisp Alpine air.

The soft fruit of a Pinot Noir, a little bit of slate-like minerality that reminds us of the Gamay grape and a nice kick of spice on the finish. It’s a perfect summer-fall transition wine.

Big thanks to our Sales Rep Liz for bringing this across the pond. We didn’t know we needed it either until she made us try it!

RIP Didier Dagueneau

Originally published on September 20, 2008.

Didier Dagueneau died a few days ago, September 17th, when his ultralight plane crashed in the Cognac region. Nice write up from Joe Dressner, his US importer, Joe Dressner, here. I never met the man, but I knew his wines. They tasted like nothing so much as themselves. I wish I would have drunk them more often.

Misforecasting

Originally published on September 7, 2008.

So this weekend was the first official weekend of fall, at least according to the retail calendar. The wine drinkers in the neighborhood appear to back from their summer holidays and drinking wine with a vengeance! And let’s just say, I was a little bit unprepared. As of this moment we are out of, or 1 bottle away from being out of the following:

  • Saint Clair Sauvignon Blanc –> go-to NZ Sauv Blanc
  • Rain Sauvignon Blanc –> a few bottles scrounged out of desperation on Friday to get me through the weekend. People seemed to like it so it may be added to the permanent line-up, at least temporarily)
  • Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc –> between vintages. The 2008 will be here soon, thank goodness!
  • Stellina Pinot Grigio –> as good as Santa Margherita for less than half the price and it’s downright painful to be out of stock on this wine because people looooooooooooove pinot grigio!
  • Chateau Beau Vallon –> damn good St Emillion for $25 bucks
  • Roger Perrin Cote du Rhone –> the current winner in the on-going battle for the CdR space on the shelf
  • Terrazas Reserva Malbec –> was moving sort of slowly in August, but the last week, it has zoomed off the shelf
  • Sebastiani Chardonnay –> good Cali Chardonnay for less than $15. Fills the creamy/buttery slot for Chardonnay
  • Nell Chardonnay –> good Aussie Chardonnay for less than $15. It’s from Yarra Valley, where it gets quite cool, so it fills the crisper/cleaner Chardonnay slot
  • Domaine de la Noiraie Bourgueil –> had this open on Friday and it was a huge hit…huger than expected – only 2 bottles left!
  • Hirsch Riesling –> fantastic biodynamic Austrian producer. Love this wine
  • Ruinart Blanc de Blanc –> $66 may not seem like a bargain for a bottle of Champagne, but after all the recent price increases, it is! If I’m spending my own money on big house Champers, this is one of the few I’m buying
  • Julien Meyer Pinot Gris –> blew through a case of this in just over 2 weeks, which is amazing given that it’s one of the wines I always forget to recommend. Doesn’t seem to matter – people seem to know it and realize it’s fantastic stuff at a great price
  • Ecchverria Sauv Blanc –> people seem to inhale this one

Well, time to stop typing and get down to ordering…

Forget about school, let’s get Back to Wine…

Originally published on September 2, 2008 .

Haven’t written about wine in a while….so thought I’d give highlights of a couple recent tastes.

Donnhoff Riesling 2003 -No special vineyard designation, just plain old Donnhoff. That’s an oxymoron, really. Even basic Donnhoff is pretty fabulous. If you want to read all about the magic of Donnhoff, the best place is the Terry Theise catalog. I tasted this one blind and liked it at first sniff. It had that hint of petrol you can get with ageing Rieslings, but not too much. And to my nose, crystallized pineapple. Very pure, fresh, opulent without being full-on decadent. Just delicious. And acquired for the rock bottom price of $17 at a wine shop that shall remain nameless (at least until I go raid the selection myself…then I’ll give full disclosure.) In fact, I don’t even know the name – just the address – it’s one of those many fairly nondescript stores you’ll find on the streets of NYC that sometimes have treasures lurking on the shelves.

Actually, maybe I’ll give highlights on just one recent taste – it’s time to close shop and go home!