Category: Wine (Buying) History

GIFT IDEAS #6, #6.1, #6.2…etc: For Those Who Choose Wine Based on the Label

Many people do it.  You may even do it.  As a professional buyer, I try very, very hard not to do it.  But it’s true.  A cool label or bottle is more likely to get a second look.  And a really ugly label?  Let’s just say I have a few bottles on the shelf that require me to explain, “The labels horrific but the wine is great.”

But it is possible to have it both ways – great wine in a really cool package. While lining up bottles for some newsletter pictures, I realized my sweet/fortified shelf is home to some of the coolest bottles in the store. (Yes, for the eagle eyes out there, I realize the vin jaune is neither sweet nor fortified).

Perhaps it’s because they need all the help they can get to overcome the stigma of being sweet/fortified wines.  Or maybe it’s just because these particular wines tend to continue using the original bottle shapes from back in the day.  And this wines do go way way back in the day.  They’re some of the oldest, most storied wines you can buy.

But they’re not something that most wine drinker will buy for themselves.

Not because they won’t like them – when we open any of these wines at the store, most people are usually surprised at how enjoyable they are. It’s probably because they’re usually sitting on some out of the way shelf. Or because they seem like something only old people drink, while sitting in their library in front of a fire place. Or because we’re trained to never express an admiration for anything sweet.

Whatever…

They’re a great indulgence if you’re getting a gift for someone or looking for something to give yourself.  They’re quite stable and after being opened and will last anywhere from several days to forever.  They taste good. 

And the bottles are really, really cool!

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Photo details:

I’ve been asked how what filter I’m using for these photos.  It’s your basic iPhone photo with the Magazine filter from the CameraBag app.  And it you’re wondering what it’s in the background – it’s corks.  Lots and lots of corks.

GIFT IDEAS #4 & #5: Safe and Not-So-Safe 3-Packs

You know you want to give wine – because you know they like wine. But you don’t know exactly what they like. We put this 3-Pack together with that very common request in mind. Three proven favorites: a not-at-all over the-top Hunter Valley Shiraz, a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and a bottle of Champagne. What’s not to like?

SAFETY SAMPLER 3-PACK*
Keith Tulloch Kester Shiraz 2003 (Hunter Valley, Australia)
Alana Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (Marlborough, NZ)
Duc De Romet Champagne (Champagne, France)

Price: $75

Or…..

Let’s say, this time around,,,

You know they like wine – and you know they’re a bit adventurous. So we put together a 3-Pack featuring wines made from obscure grapes grown in obscure places. A red, white, and sparkling. Nothing too funky, but unless they’re Jura fanatics or roam the heights of the Italian Alps, chances are good they’ll be discovering something new.

NOT-SO-SAFE SAMPLER 3-PACK

Jacques Puffeney Poulsard M 2007 (Arbois, Jura, France)
Grosjean Muscat Petit Grain 2009 (Vallee d’Aoste, Italy)
Domaine de Montbourgeau Cremant NV (Jura, France)

Price: $72

*Don’t worry, we won’t mention “safety pack” on the actual gift pack itself. You giftees will officially be getting a “Holiday Sampler 3-Pack”

Holiday Gift Idea #3: Musar 2-Pack

Originally published on December 10, 2010.

A NOTE FROM THE FUTURE: Look at that price! Fourtheen years later, the a single bottle would cost $90 (which is still not a bad deal, given what these wines are!

This may not come as a surprise, but Frankly Wines is a little obsessed with Chateau Musar, the Lebanese wines with a back story that’s the stuff of legends.  Winery and vineyards located in Bekaa Valley, Lebanon. Founded in the 1930’s, with wine produced in nearly every harvest despite battles waged among the vines. Cellars that served as bomb shelters in the 80’s. Certain vintages that taste of gunpowder.

What I really like about Chateau Musar is that it tastes like nothing so much as itself. When describing wine to customers, I’ll often compare regions and grapes, like some wino-version of a Hollywood pitch (it’s like a Beaujolais on steroids with a little bit of Shiraz-spice thrown in.) But with Chateau Musar, there are no comparisons. It’s a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Cinsault and a few other grapes. It’s a constantly evolving mix of exotic spices, stunningly vibrant fruit, earthy, gamey, meatiness. It lasts practically forever and is a classic example of a wine that you want to keep tasting as it changes. You want to grow old together.

And that’s just the reds! The whites are just as fascinating – maybe even more so. Made from the Merwah and Obaideh grapes, the wine reminds me a bit of traditional aged white Rioja. Well, not exactly, but it’s in that realm of wines done in a slightly oxidized style. It’s nutty, with notes of caramelized nuts, dried fruits, a bit of honey (but not at all sweet) and exotic church spices. (I can hear you ask, “church spices?” Think incense, the scent of midnight mass, exotic, heady spices.)

If the reds last practically forever, the whites last even longer. They’re best served near room temperature and Serge Hochar, the legendary figurehead of Chateau Musar, insists they’re served after the reds. I certainly can’t disagree.

And that’s just the reds! The whites are just as fascinating – maybe even more so. Made from the Merwah and Obaideh grapes, the wine reminds me a bit of traditional aged white Rioja. Well, not exactly, but it’s in that realm of wines done in a slightly oxidized style. It’s nutty, with notes of caramelized nuts, dried fruits, a bit of honey (but not at all sweet) and exotic church spices. (I can hear you ask, “church spices?” Think incense, the scent of midnight mass, exotic, heady spices.) If the reds last practically forever, the whites last even longer. They’re best served near room temperature and Serge Hochar, the legendary figurehead of Chateau Musar, insists they’re served after the reds. I certainly can’t disagree.

Chateau Musar Rouge 2001: A very classic Musar, with trademark red fruits, spice, tea leaves, and funk are all nicely in balance. It’s drinking nicely now but has the bones to age for a very, very, very long time.

Chateau Musar Blanc 2001: Just a baby, as far as Musar whites go. At this young age, it really is closest to a white Rioja – tightly wound, racy acidity, some citrus, a bit of a waxy texture, exotic spices just starting to reveal themselves. Keep it for about, oh, 50 years and it will really start to show its stuff.

Price: $90

Holiday Gift Idea #2: Lopez Love 3-Pack

Originally published on December 10, 2010.

Not a holiday goes by that I can’t find a reason to mention Lopez de Heredia.  If this is the first you’re noticing…we’ll you’re really not paying attention!  But if I learned anything in my corporate marketing days, it’s all about repeat exposure so….here we go again!

I’ll keep this post short and sweet – just a list of the wines in the 3-Pack.  But just go to the web site to learn more.  Or read this old post.  Or this one.  Or this one.  Or even this one.

Or to get someone else’s perspective, check out the Anchor Wine blog for a recap on a recent visit (and some spectacular photos.)

3-Pack includes:

Lopez de Heredia Bosconia 2002 (Red)
Lopez de Heredia Gravonia Blanco 2000 (White)
Lopez de Heredia Rosado 2000 (Rose)

Price: $80 

Thanksgiving Day Suggestion #10: For Those Who are Feeling a Little Extravagant

Originally posted November 21, 2010.

A NOTE FROM THE FUTURE: I completely forgot this existed. But oh my, was it good. It’s time for the Jura to make a come back! Or… given that the Jura never went away, it’s time for me to refocus on that region and make an effort to sell more of it.

Jacques Puffeney Vin de Paille 2003 375ml (Arbois, Jura, France)
This stuff is so good, you’ll want to beat your head against a wall and rip off your arms. You’ll want to counter the intense pleasure with some serious pain…hence the arm ripping and head banging. It’s made from the same Savagnin grape as the Jura’s more famous Vin Jaune. But in this version, those grapes are laid out on mats to dry (or maybe just in boxes.) This concentrates the sugars, resulting in a sweet wine that brings to mind sweet and savory notes of walnuts, brown sugar, maple syrup, and some sort of spice. If that sounds rich, it is – but that richness is balanced by a sneaky spine of acidity that prevents even a hint of anything cloying. Yes, it’s expensive. But it’s delicious and tastes like absolutely nothing other than Vin de Paille. If you’re feeling spendy, it’s well worth a few bruises and an arm or two. Seriously.

Price: $77.99

Thanksgiving Day Suggestion #9: For Those Who Want a (Kind of) Zinfandel

Originally posted November 20, 2010.

A NOTE FROM THE FUTURE: More like a note to myself – a reminder to buy more of this wine. More recently, we regularly sell the Foradori wines from the Marema, but I need to get this back on the shelf. It’s just so, so good. Geeky and crowd-pleasing? As a wine buyer, that’s my favorite sort of wine.

Foradori Teroldego Rotaliano 2007 (Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy)
Most lists of Thanksgiving wine suggestions will usually include a Zinfandel. It’s the whole “American holiday-American grape variety” thing. And while I’m not going to prevent anyone from buying a nice bottle of Ridge or Dashe Zinfandel, I’m not going to formally include this grape on my list.

But I will include a wine that can sort of fill that Zinfandel spot…a Teroldego.

”Sort of” is the key phase. Because really, Teroldego doesn’t have much in common with Zinfandel. It’s rarely seen outside the little Campo Rotaliano region at the base of the Italian Alps. It makes wines that are lighter than even the lightest Zinfandel, with less spice, more herbal notes, and more minerality. It’s not even related to Zinfandel – most people who track such things consider it a cousin of Syrah.

But it is red. And it does have a similar red-berry character. And…..well, like I said – it’s red!

So why am I trying to shove it into the Zinfandel hole?

It’s because I really like this wine. I’m always forgetting about it when it comes time to purchase wines for the store or recommend wines to the customers. Which has everything to do with me – and nothing to do with the wine – because it’s a very good wine. It does offer up enough fruit to keep all but the most die-hard fruit fanatics happy. But it’s elegant and vibrant and has an underlying complexity that makes it a very good match with many foods. Some Teroldegos can get a little earthy/funky, but Elisabetta Foradori manages a nice balance between the fruit and the earthier/herbally elements. We’ve had it open at the store and it’s one of those “oh yeah, I’ll take a bottle” wines.

I’m specifically recommending her Teroldego Rotaliano, but she also does a higher end version called Granato. Its flavors are a bit more concentrated and it sees more time in oak. I like that one much more when it’s had a little time to age – when the polish and sheen of its youth has time to mellow into something with a little more funk and earth. And of course, if you’re feeling really fancy, I happen to have a couple bottles from the 2002, 2001, and 200 vintage on hand. At least until I decide to drink them myself.

Price: $22.99 

Thanksgiving Day Suggestion #8: For Those Who Really Want to Drink Beer

Originally posted November 19, 2010.

A NOTE FROM THE FUTURE: I still adore this wine. And happily, the price is still quite similar to what it used to be!

Donati Camillo Malvasia Dolce Frissante 2007 (Emilia Romagna, Italy): This is not the first time I’ve written about this wine. It’s irresistible and addictive. It’s also hard to sell without a lot of arm twisting. But at this point, I’ve forced enough bottles on unsuspecting friends, customers, and (my) mother(s) that I’m comfortable twisting those arms. Because everyone who has tried it likes it. Not just likes it, but loves it. Even becomes ridiculously addicted to it. So this crazy cross between a beer and cream soda has gained a permanent place on the shelf. As long as it’s in stock at the distributor, it’s in stock at Frankly Wines.

There is a dry version which I enjoyed recently. But with every sip I kept wanting that little bit of sweetness, of extra creaminess and overall deliciousness that this one – the Dolce – offers up. So this is the one. Just use the excuse that at least one of your guests would rather be drinking beer and serve this as your “sort of beer-like substitute.” And then just try not to like it.

Price: $20.99

A bottle of Donati sparkling wine next to two stemless glasses filled with it. The picture is sort of blurry thanks to the old iphone I was using and the sepia filters that were the rage of the day.

Thanksgiving Day Suggestion #7: For Those Who Like a Little Tradition with their Turkey

Originally posted November 18, 2010.

I know it may not be the cool kid thing to like, but I am not exactly a cool kid. So I will say it loud and proud. I like a nice Beaujolais Nouveau around Thanksgiving time! The best of them, from small producers that aren’t turning out containers full of the stuff, are fresh and fruity and juicy. With a legally mandated release date of November 18th, they’re they freshest bottles on the shelf come Turkey Day.

And a good one is just the thing to wash down plates of Thanksgiving treats. You won’t linger over its complexity. You won’t go on about how profound it is. And it certainly won’t change your life. But it will taste good with everything from a perfectly brined turkey to a plate of stovetop stuffing. And really…do you want to serve a wine that might outshine that shaved carrot and marshmallow salad? No you don’t.

So act fast and pick up a bottle or two. Or a five. Or a case. But hurry. Last year, we sold every bottle before the turkey even hit the oven.

A picture of a bottle of Beaujolais Nouveau with a tag on it that says: I am the last bottle of Beaujolais Nouveau. It's next to French flag.

Thanksgiving Day Suggestion #6: For Those Who Like to Eat Dessert First

Originally posted November 18, 2010.

You can have your cake and eat it too. Actually, that phrase never made much sense to me. If you have a cake, why on earth wouldn’t you eat it? And it doesn’t make sense in the context of Thanksgiving, because everyone knows you don’t eat cake on turkey day – you eat pie! But anyway…

If you’re one of those people who grin and bear the turkey just to get to the dessert spread, than here are some wines to consider.

Emilio Hidalgo Gobernador Oloroso Sec (Jerez, Spain): Darky, nutty, with caramel notes and a bit of a salty character – this is like an adult-only piece of caramel sprinkled with very good sea salt. It’s not really the best match for pumpkin pie, but it can stand on its own as a dessert in a bottle. Price: $24.99 

Eric Bordelet Sidre Doux NV 2008 (Normandy, France): This slightly sparkling, slightly sweet cider is an autumn delight. It’s made by a former Parisian sommelier who couldn’t resist the pull of the old, old apple trees on his family’s property in Normandy. Very romantic story, very yummy wine. It’s like apple pie in a bottle. Price: $13.99 

Santa Julia Tardio Late Harvest Torrontes 2008 500ml (Mendoza, Argentina): Even in a dry version, Torrontes has some of the floral notes that are a bit Muscat-like, but with a bit more spice. This version is very lightly sweet – it’s actually much more versatile than a typical dessert wine. But for the purposes of Thanksgiving, pop it open at the end of the meal for a not-overly-sweet treat. Price: $14.99 

Thanksgiving Day Suggestion #5: For Those Who Just Want Something Good

Originally posted on November 16, 2010.

Binner Les Saveurs Assemblage de Cepages d’Alsace 2008(Alsace, France): If Thanksgiving is the quintessential fall meal, then this could be the quintessential autumn wine. It’s a blend of Pinot Gris, Muscat, Riesling, and I think, I little Gewürztraminer. It’s all the juice from each of these grapes that couldn’t fit into the big barrels. Theses left overs are blended together and the result is this very tasty wines. This wine is unfiltered – and noticeably so. But don’t let the cloudiness scare you. It’s supposed to be that way. And the blend of all these grapes makes for a slightly spicy, slightly floral , very fall-like wine. I love this wine – whenever I recommend it, I always think “I really need to drink more of this wine.” Which I will do – on Thanksgiving. And you should too.

Price: $16.99

A bottle of Binner shot with a really terrible 2010 sepia toned filter.