A NOTE FROM THE FUTURE: Descombes on the shelf for $20??? I could cry. Nah, no crying in Beaujolais. Just moving on to the next crop of growers – there still value to be found, you just need to keep your eyes peeled. (And honestly, Descombes at what it sells for today is still very much a decent value. Just maybe a bit less so than it was ten years ago.)
Originally published on October 11, 2008.
Last night, we poured the Georges Descombes Régnié 2007. Georges Descombes is the 5th member of the Morgan Gang of Four. Yes, my math is correct, there are 5 members in the Gang of Four. I will explain, but first you’ll have to endure a little Beaujolais education. Beaujolias = a region in France. Technically, it’s the southern-most part of the Burgundy region, but it really can stand as a region of its own. In most of Burgundy, the red wines are made from the Pinot Noir grape. In the Beaujolais, the red wines (and they are mainly red) are made from the Gamay grape.
Unfortunately, Beaujolais has a bit of an image problem – mainly among people who haven’t actually tried a good Beaujolais. When most people think of Beaujolias, they think of a wine that’s rooty-tooty-fresh-and-fruity and almost bubble-gummy. While these are actually good starter wines for people just moving beyond White Zinfandel (I drank it myself when I was just starting out), they don’t really give an indication as to what really good Beaujolais can do.
Starter wines aside, good Beaujolais is an ideal match for fall. It offers the perfect balance of fresh red fruits, dark, slate-y earthiness, and the zip of acidity that makes it perfect with food. The best Beaujolais come from ten specific villages within the broader region. These villages are referred to as “crus” and they have lovely French names like Brouilly, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Saint-Amore, Molin-a-Vent, and Morgon.
The village of Morgon is home to four vignerons (a French word that incorporates grape-growing and winemaking in a more holistic way than just saying viticulturalist/winemaker) who make fabulous, “serious” Beaujolais and practice natural* winemaking. (I’d say “benchmark” Beaujolais, but that goes against the spirit of what these wines are about.)
This Morgon Gang of Four includes Marcel Lapierre, Jean Foillard, Guy Breton, and Jean-Paul Thevenet (all imported by Kermit Lynch). But they aren’t the only vignerons in Morgon using natural winemaking techniques to make Beaujolias that stand heads and tails above anything else in the region….Georges Descombes is another. Since his wines are imported by Louis/Dressner, another importer, officially amending the Morgan Gang of Four to the Morgan Gang of Five probably isn’t going to happen.
But the wine we opened last night wasn’t even from Morgon – it was from the village of Régnié. But it was made by Descombes. And it was good.
Added bonus: it doesn’t actually say “Beaujolais” on the label, it just says “Régnié” and very few people know what that means. So people couldn’t turn up their noses before they tried it. And guess what, they liked it!
I’m not going to get into an actual tasting note (too much tying already), but if you’re interested, just out BrooklynGuys note on the 2006 here. Keep in mind he was drinking the 2006 about a year ago (@ $20/bottle). We have the 2007 at a few dollars more (damn euro!)
*”Natural” wine. “Real” wine. Whatever you call it, the Louis/Dressner gives an elegant description right here.