Originally published on December 10, 2010.
A NOTE FROM THE FUTURE: Look at that price! Fourtheen years later, the a single bottle would cost $90 (which is still not a bad deal, given what these wines are!
This may not come as a surprise, but Frankly Wines is a little obsessed with Chateau Musar, the Lebanese wines with a back story that’s the stuff of legends. Winery and vineyards located in Bekaa Valley, Lebanon. Founded in the 1930’s, with wine produced in nearly every harvest despite battles waged among the vines. Cellars that served as bomb shelters in the 80’s. Certain vintages that taste of gunpowder.
What I really like about Chateau Musar is that it tastes like nothing so much as itself. When describing wine to customers, I’ll often compare regions and grapes, like some wino-version of a Hollywood pitch (it’s like a Beaujolais on steroids with a little bit of Shiraz-spice thrown in.) But with Chateau Musar, there are no comparisons. It’s a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Cinsault and a few other grapes. It’s a constantly evolving mix of exotic spices, stunningly vibrant fruit, earthy, gamey, meatiness. It lasts practically forever and is a classic example of a wine that you want to keep tasting as it changes. You want to grow old together.
And that’s just the reds! The whites are just as fascinating – maybe even more so. Made from the Merwah and Obaideh grapes, the wine reminds me a bit of traditional aged white Rioja. Well, not exactly, but it’s in that realm of wines done in a slightly oxidized style. It’s nutty, with notes of caramelized nuts, dried fruits, a bit of honey (but not at all sweet) and exotic church spices. (I can hear you ask, “church spices?” Think incense, the scent of midnight mass, exotic, heady spices.)
If the reds last practically forever, the whites last even longer. They’re best served near room temperature and Serge Hochar, the legendary figurehead of Chateau Musar, insists they’re served after the reds. I certainly can’t disagree.
And that’s just the reds! The whites are just as fascinating – maybe even more so. Made from the Merwah and Obaideh grapes, the wine reminds me a bit of traditional aged white Rioja. Well, not exactly, but it’s in that realm of wines done in a slightly oxidized style. It’s nutty, with notes of caramelized nuts, dried fruits, a bit of honey (but not at all sweet) and exotic church spices. (I can hear you ask, “church spices?” Think incense, the scent of midnight mass, exotic, heady spices.) If the reds last practically forever, the whites last even longer. They’re best served near room temperature and Serge Hochar, the legendary figurehead of Chateau Musar, insists they’re served after the reds. I certainly can’t disagree.
Chateau Musar Rouge 2001: A very classic Musar, with trademark red fruits, spice, tea leaves, and funk are all nicely in balance. It’s drinking nicely now but has the bones to age for a very, very, very long time.
Chateau Musar Blanc 2001: Just a baby, as far as Musar whites go. At this young age, it really is closest to a white Rioja – tightly wound, racy acidity, some citrus, a bit of a waxy texture, exotic spices just starting to reveal themselves. Keep it for about, oh, 50 years and it will really start to show its stuff.
Price: $90