Tag: Bordeaux Blanc

THE QUEST FOR THE PERFECT WHITE BORDEAUX CONTINUES

Originally published on July 28, 2011.

Yes, yes, yes, this is a direct cut and paste job from yesterday’s newsletter. And it’s pretty much the same as the blurb that’s on the web site. But I would bet money that there aren’t more than three people in the world who read my newsletter, this blog, and the store web site. And two of those people are probably my parents (who will most likely be sending me an email this evening that says “hey, you mentioned us in your blog!)

So in the name of reach and frequencey, here’s a little Control-C / Control-V for your reading pleasure:

It’s possible that white Bordeaux is the least fashionable wine out there. But I don’t care. I love it and am continually on the quest for good ones. I’ve said it before, I’ll say it again: a really good, aged Bordeaux Blanc can offer up the perfect balance of rich creaminess, zesty acidity, zippy citrus and subtle herbal notes, combined with the nutty complexity that comes with a bit of bottle age. It’s wonderful with cream sauces, sauces involving fresh herbs, many veggie dishes, and grilled fish.
My quest for the delicious but unfashionable finally landed me in a very happy place. I managed to round up some very good, very nicely aged Bordeaux Blanc at a very, very, very nice price. Apparently, loving an out-of-fashion wines can have its perks!

So here’s the story: the wine is L’Esprit de Chevalier. It’s the second label of Domaine de Chavalier, which is one of the region’s most classic, most proper producers of white Bordeaux. We have both 1999 and 2000 on hand. The 2000 is drinking wonderfully right now, right out of the bottle. The 1999 is a bit tighter and more structured at this point in it’s life. I loved it on day 2, so it’s one to enjoy over a couple days, decant, or sock away for another couple years. And the price (drum roll, please) – $29.99/bottle.

Not to get all infomercial on you, but this is a really, really good deal. If you’re at all intrigued, my recommendation is to buy one of each vintage, invite some friends over, grill up some fish and drink them side by side. I’ve put together some special pricing to make this even more intriguing!

Go ahead, be fashionably unfashionable and click to learn more.

One Classic White Bordeaux, Found: R de Rieussec

Originally published on August 29, 2009.

I found it!

Several months ago, I was bemoaning my store’s lack of a classic white Bordeaux. But a couple months ago, one walked into my shop that met all my criteria: a higher percentage of Semillon, some barrel ageing to add a bit of spice and creaminess, and little bit of bottle ageing. And it sits on the shelf at $29.99, the high end of my range, but well worth it.

The new addition? R de Rieussec Bordeaux Blanc 2004.

If the name sounds familiar, it’s because Chateau Rieussec is one of the top Sauternes, arguably second only to Chateau d’Yquem in sweet botrysized fabulousness. But this version, the “R” is not a Sauternes. Yes, the grapes come from the same plots of land as those that go into bottles labeled Sauternes. They may even come from the same vine – or even the same bunch. But the grapes that go into the “R” bottles haven’t been affected by botrytis, so the final result is dry rather than sweet. And Sauternes, according to French appellation laws, must be sweet. So “R de Rieussec” is labeled under the more generic Bordeaux Blanc appellation.

The only problem – the distributor will be moving into the next vintage in the near future. So unless the next vintage comes with bottle ageing already intact, I’ll be searching again.

In Search of a Classic White Bordeaux

Originally published on March 26, 2009.

I’ve written about the buying grid before. Well, lately, there’s been a big hole in it. I’m in need of a classic Bordeaux Blanc, one that can sit on the shelf between $20 – $30. Ideally, right at $24.99. Ideally, from the Graves sub-region (the part of Bordeaux best-suited to dry, white wines.) And the style absolutely, positively has to be the classic Bordeaux Blanc style.

And what’s that, you ask?

Well, to start, Bordeaux Blanc (ok, white Bordeaux) is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. The Muscadelle grape is also allowed, but you don’t see it very often. Actually, you don’t see any of the grapes very often because their names don’t appear on the label. You just have to know.
To my taste buds, a “classic” white Bordeaux has a high percentage of Semillon in the blend, goes through barrel fermentaiton, and spends some additional time aging in barrel. This time in oak adds an element of creaminess and spice that is usually associated with Chardonnay. But the Sauv/Sem in the blend ensures a zippy acidity and notes of citrus and herbs that is very un-Chard-like.

The combination of creaminess + citrus + herbal notes make it the perfect match for almost anything in a cream sauce, especially if fish or any sort of fresh herbs are involved. Tonight, someone needed something to pair with a pasta dish prepared with cream sauce, zucchini and scallops. A classic white Bordeaux would have been perfect….

But alas, I didn’t have one to offer. I had been selling the Chateau Villa Bel-Air 2004 which had all of the above + the extra benefit of a little bit of age. Just under $25, it was a great buy. Little by little, I managed to drain the distributor of their entire supply. The last bottle was sold about 2 months ago and I’ve yet to find a suitable replacement.

Part of the problem is that a lot of white Bordeaux is now very New Zealand-esque: heavy on the Sauvignon Blanc, highly citrus/grapefruit driven fruit, oak-free, fresh and zingy rather than creamy. From a business standpoint, it’s a wise move. New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc has been growing like gangbusters. People love it. I love it. But if I want New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, I buy New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. If I want white Bordeaux….well, I haven’t been able to find a white Bordeaux I like because they all taste like New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.

Alright, I exaggerate a bit. I know there is plenty of classic white Bordeaux out there. The current vintage of Chateau Villa Bel-Air 2007 could fill the slot…if I could put it in a time machine, age it for 3 years, and then bring it back to the shop. But that’s not an option. So I keep on searching…for the right wine….at the right price…with just that little bit of age on it…

Suggestions?