Tales of a Clairvoyant Wine Merchant

Originally published on November 5, 2009.

A couple weeks ago I was going on, as I’ve been known to do, about how my personal wine geek preferences seem to be a leading indicator of what shows up in the New York Times. Yes, I know one really has nothing to do with the other. But I still get a kick out of it. I’ll quote a portion of that post:

“…if my personal obsessions are good indicators of what you’ll see in future New York Times articles, then stay tuned for features on dry muscats, Gemischter Satz wines, very old Chianti and anything alpine…..”

And what showed up in this week’s New York Times? Gemischter Satz wines! And a mention of my latest favorite Gelber Muskateller, a.k.a. a dry Muscat!

Spooooooooooky.

Jura Maybe Not So Obscura Anymore – Hello New York Times!

Originally published on September 22, 2009.

Just 3 weeks ago, I was waxing on about the fabulous wines of the Jura and a 2-Pack I had put together featuring two of them. And what’s due to appear tomorrow in Eric Asimov’s New York Times wine column, “The Pour“? Why, yes! Wines of the Jura!

Ok, obviously Mr. Asimov is not copying my blog. Certain wine regions and grapes have a way of floating around in the rarefied wine-world ether until wine writers, retailers, and sommeliers of a certain bent all seem to pick up on them at the same time. A similar thing happens in the fashion world: somehow, for some odd reason, all the designers wind up showing tiger prints, or tent-like silhouettes, or lines inspired by fairy-tale tapestries.

But it is nice to be first…to feature these wines in-store before they hit the paper. And if my personal obsessions are good indicators of what you’ll see in future New York Times articles, then stay tuned for features on dry muscats, Gemischter Satz wines, very old Chianti and anything alpine. And Chateau Musar…always Chateau Musar!

Consider yourself warned. And remember….you heard it here first.

Another 3-Pack: Jura Obscura

A NOTE FROM TEH FUTURE: Ok, ok, ok. The Jura isn’t actually an Alpine region. It’s pre-Alpine. Back in the day I was a little over-eager with my yodel references. The dear and brilliant Wink Lorch set me straight!

Originally published on September 1, 2009.

OK, full disclosure…this 3-Pack is really a 2-Pack. But we like consistency in titles, so live with it.

Onto the wine…continuing with the theme of Weird but Good, we’re heading to a obscure region where obscure grapes are used to make wines in obscure styles.

The Jura is a region in the far east of France – so far east that it’s practically Switzerland. We’re heading into Alpine territory here, and these are wines that make us want to yodel!

You’ve probably never heard of the Jura’s most famous wine, vin jaune, which lasts forever and has some of the same funky, tangy nutty notes as a good sherry. You’ve probably never heard of some of its most important grapes (Savagnin, Poulsard, Trousseau.) And you’ve probably never had wines that taste quite like the wines in this 2-Pack. But there’s a good chance you’ll like them.

We’re featuring a red and a white from Domaine Andre et Mireille Tissot, both made from grapes grown in the Arbois region of the Jura. Many producers in this region farm biodynamically and produce wines as naturally as possible, adding nothing except possibly a very small amount of sulfur. The Tissot husband and wife team is no exception. If you’re curious about natural wines this is a great region – and producer – to check out.

Tissot Arbois Selection 2004 (Chardonnay/Savagnin): Yes, that’s Savagnin, not Sauvignon. And you may think you know Chardonnay, but we can practically guarantee you don’t know this Chardonnay. Made in the traditional Jura style, the wine is slightly oxidized, but in a good way. You’ll get bruised apples, nutty notes, a slight sherry tang and a spine of racy acidity that keeps the wine going for days. It actually improves if you leave it open for a couple days. Yes, days. It’s a great match with stinky cheeses, chicken dishes, and pork chops.

Tissot Arbois Vielles Vignes 2006 (Poulsard): There’s some Pinot Noir grown in the Jura, but the wine geek favorite would be the rarely-seen-elsewhere Poulsard. This grape makes for a wine that’s light in color, medium in body, but big in flavor: bright, fresh, slightly tart cherries, exotic spice, a hint of autumn underbrush, and a fresh minerality, like fresh chalky soil. Bright acidity and surprisingly sneaky tannins give the wine some structure. Best with a very slight chill, it’s a wine that can pair with a surprising variety of foods, but duck with cherry glaze or lamb rubbed in fresh herbs might be just about perfect.

PRICING: $35.99 (regular price $39.98). Click to buy your little piece of obscurity.