Originally published on October 19, 2011.
We had a good, long run working through our stash of Jean-Pierre Gaussen 2001 Bandol. We loved this wine for its classic, rustic only-in-Bandol blend of dark, brambly fruit, firm meatiness, and undercurrent of sunbaked herbs. And we loved that it was at the absolutely ready to drink – right off the shelf – when most other traditional Bandol’s on the market were new releases, in need of some serious aging. But save for a few magnums, the wine is now completely sold through.
Now when I sell through a favorite wine like this, I usually go into a mourning period for the old bottle, mooning over samples and price lists and bemoaning that I will never find a replacement bottle as good, at just the right price. And I did that for a couple weeks. But this time, the gods of wine (I guess that would be Bacchus) smiled on my and sent me a replacement very quickly.
So here’s the true story of our new Bandol…
*** WARNING ***
If you think wine buying is all about romantic travels through vineyards and cellars of little backroad town, then stop reading now. Your illusions are about to be shattered.
…So, on with the story: I run into one of my sales reps in Astor Place. He’s on his way from the Mud Truck and I’m on my way to the Mud Truck. (It’s a four-distributor tasting kind of day. Caffeineation is required.)
Me: Hey, they were out of the 2004 Bandol at the tasting. Could you get me a sample soon? I need a Bandol with some age on it. Him: Let me check (pulls out some spreadsheet reports.) We actually have two cases of the La Bastide Blanche Bandol “Cuvee Estagnol” 1997. You interested?
Me (in my head): I really hate to buy wine without tasting it. But I really liked the 2008. Too young to really drink easily, but it has the bones I like in my Bandol. And the 2004 was poured off a couple hours before the end of the tasting, which is always a good sign that it was showing well and drawing some excitement. And two cases isn’t a lot and there aren’t many older Bandol vintages kicking around the market and I really don’t like not having an older Bandol on my shelf so…..
Me (out loud): Ship them next Tuesday.
Deal done. Off to get coffee and hop the subway to get to another tasting. So much for wine romance.
Anyhow, the wine arrives and it’s time to open a bottle and try it. And happily, it tastes exactly as it should. Grapes for this cuvee are grown on clay-limestone soil, so this wine is a wee bit less beefy than the Gaussen. But we’re not talking elegant here – this is classic Bandol, Powerful and meaty, with firm tannins and a core of baked, dark fruit that recalls the sun-baked slopes of Provence. Perfect for autumn weather and richer, wintery foods. Think stews, lamb, game (hunting season is just around the corner.)
Buy it now, drink it within a year. If you’re a Bandol fan, you won’t be disappointed (unless you wait around until it’s all sold out….remember….we bought the last 2 cases and have already opened a bottle!)
Price : $44.99