Originally published on November 16, 2011.
A NOTE FROM THE FUTURE: Time to revisit these wines. This is the one big thing I miss about having a shop in a high traffic area of NYC – the sales volume was just so much higher that I could bring in a 6pk of something like these wines and know that we would be able to sell them within a month or two. Up in Copake land, the total sales volume is much smaller, so the inventory levels get out of wack very quickly. If I were much better at getting out regular newsletters, I could play a little faster and looser with the fun stuff. But right now, with a foot in NYC and a toe or two in Copake, that doesn’t happen. Check back for a future Note from the Future – because hopefully this will change a bit when I’m up there full time!
In a wine store in the days leading up to Thanksgiving, you learn a lot about people’s families. You learn that a lot of people aren’t so keen on their families. And they really dread the prospect of an extended turkey-filled meal. It’s not like you can just sense this….they flat out tell you. Turkey Day wine requests usually go something like, “I need two bottles of white, two reds, and I really don’t want to spend the day with my over-bearing brother-in-law.” Or “I’m making oyster stuffing this year, do you have anything really strong that will drown out the annual argument between my mother and sister?”
OK, maybe they’re not all that explicit, but there’s definitely a lot of eye rolling, deep sighing, and general tension in the air.
So if you’re one of those customers in need of a little tableside harmony, there’s nothing more appropriate than a wine from Switzerland, that great bastion of neutrality (and cheese and cuckoo clocks.)
Our suggestion: either of Fabienne Cottagnoud’s two reds. Or both if you’re in need of serious peace brokering. Fabienne turns out a sexy, silky Pinot Noir that’s almost jewel-like. And for something a bit brawnier, her Humagne (that’s the grape’s name) is a stunner – something like a Northern Rhone Syrah crossed with a gust of Alpine air. These are beautiful, unique wines that will help you breathe more easily and forget about any turkey-time tensions hovering over your table. They’re not inexpensive, because apparently, neutrality has its price.
Caves des Tilleuls (Cottagnoud) Pinot Noir de Vertroz 2008:
$34.99
Caves des Tilleuls (Cottagnoud) Humagne Rouge de Vertoz 2009:
$44.99